I’ve been to Sicily a number of times, but I hadn’t heard of the town of Scoglitti until my podcast guest Carmel Ruggeri brought it up – and now I can’t stop thinking about going.

Carmel, born in Sydney to Sicilian parents, spent her childhood traveling back to Sicily. It wasn’t just a family vacation destination – it was a second home. And these days, it’s the heart of her food tour business, Sicilian Food Tours, which she’s been running for over a decade.

So what makes Scoglitti special?

“It’s a little fishing village on the southeast corner of Sicily, and the whole south coast is just white sandy beaches,” Carmel told me. “To me, it’s like heaven. I know I’m biased – but I love it.”

A Slow Day in Scoglitti

This is the kind of town that swells with Italian families in the summer – from 2,000 people in the winter to around 70,000 in peak season. But Carmel loves May and June best, when the air is warm but the tourists haven’t fully arrived. The routine? Simple. And pretty perfect.

You wake up, head to the bar for a granita with brioche, maybe even gelato for breakfast. Then it’s off to the beach. Later, you come back for pasta, take a siesta, and eventually wander out again for a chilled té freddo and something delicious from a local spot.

“This is the stuff I love about Scoglitti,” Carmel says. “It’s that real experience of a seaside holiday – and I’ve been lucky enough to live it time and time again.”

What to Eat in Scoglitti

Carmel could easily run a three-day tour just in her hometown – there’s that much good food. She recommends starting with gelato from Bar Riviera. “They make a strawberry gelato that’s out of this world,” she says. “Friends of mine have gone there and had it four times in one day.”

Another standout? The scaccia – a folded semolina pastry from nearby Ragusa, filled with vegetables and cheese. “One of my favorites has eggplant and parmigiana-style flavors, or sometimes broccoli and raisins,” Carmel says. “That sweet and sour note comes from our Arab influence – and it’s absolutely divine.”

She also raves about a local place that serves arancine (rice balls), pastizzi, and scacce by the tray. “You spend 20 euro and get 10 in a tray,” she says. “It’s street food, but you can take it to the beach and call it lunch.”

Her personal go-to? A simple panino – crusty bread wrapped in foil from a busy Sicilian deli. “You walk out with your sandwich and a cold beer, and you just sit on a bench or by the beach. That’s my favorite kind of meal,” she says.

A hands-on experience with Sicilian Food Tours . Photo courtesy of Carmel.

The Deep Roots of Sicilian Food

Sicilian cuisine is incredibly diverse – and deeply shaped by its history of conquest. “Everyone came through Sicily,” Carmel says. “The Greeks, the Arabs, the Normans, the Spanish – and you can taste it in our food.”

That’s why you’ll find raisins, pine nuts, herbs, and sweet-and-savory combinations in everyday dishes. “We’ll cook onions for hours and mix them with breadcrumbs and wild greens. You get this richness and balance that’s just incredible.”

The produce shines because of Sicily’s volcanic soil – tomatoes, eggplants, capers, olives, citrus. “You can put a tomato on a plate with a bit of basil and cheese, and that’s the meal,” Carmel says. “It’s the flavor that stands out.”

A Week in Sicily, According to a Local

If you’ve got seven days, Carmel suggests starting in the west – maybe Palermo or Castellammare del Golfo – and winding your way through the island. Highlights include:

Erice for handmade biscuits
Valley of the Temples in Agrigento
Scoglitti for sun, pastry, and scaccia
Modica and Noto for Baroque beauty and traditional chocolate
Ortigia and Siracusa for ancient ruins and seaside charm
Taormina if you’re in the mood for shops and views (though she prefers less touristy spots)

“It’s the diversity of the landscape,” Carmel says. “You’ve got fishing villages, hilltop towns, ruins, lush greenery, white beaches – all within a couple hours’ drive.”

And yes, she runs food tours to all these spots.

A Few Insider Tips

Carmel Ruggeri takes visitors on culinary experiences all over Sicily. Photo courtesy of Carmel.

Granita with brioche is a must for breakfast – try the coffee flavor with whipped cream on top.
Don’t order a cappuccino after lunch. It’s a morning drink only.
If you see pinecones for sale, they’re not just souvenirs – they symbolize prosperity and good luck.
Cannoli tip: Pre-order at Antica Dolceria Bonajuto in Modica. “You won’t see them in the case,” Carmel says. “But trust me, they’re divine.”

Why This Matters

For Carmel, Sicily is more than a vacation spot – it’s home. Even though her parents left for Australia decades ago, she feels deeply connected to the place. “The first time I went back as an adult, I just knew. I had this feeling in my stomach like, ‘This is right.’”

Now, through her food tours, she’s helping others feel that same connection – not just through the food, but through the warmth and hospitality of the people.

“I want travelers to really feel Sicily,” she says. “Not just check off the tourist spots, but meet the locals, taste what we taste, slow down. That’s the Sicily I know.”

Sicily Food Tour: Scoglitti, Palermo, and More